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Posted by: Doug/VA - 12/23/2001 (10:50 a.m.) - 216.98.83.191
I got a tube of anti seize lubricant at a local Advance auto. They said it was the same thing as the Permatex anti seize, but I remember 1SHOT-1KILL stating what he used was a "silvery goo". This is brown in color and is a copper base. It says it precents sticking, galling and seizing due to corrosion and heat. It also says it resists temperatures to 2,000 degrees.
Will this lube be OK to use on the breechplug and vent liner threads? Or do I need to take this back and get something else?
Posted by: 1SHOT-1KILL - 12/23/2001 (4:10 p.m.) - 63.15.175.124
I use the "silvery goo", bt Tboy Bridges uses that "coppery goo". He probably shoots 10 shots for my every one, and he has not had any problems using that "coppery goo". The main thing is that both prevent galling, sticking, corrosion, and are resistant to high heat.
Posted by: 1SHOT-1KILL - 12/23/2001 (7:10 p.m.) - 63.15.175.125
Doug to be honest with you, from what I have seen between the silver and the copper, I would say one is just as good as the other. I happen to use the silver, because that is what I have. I've got a 4oz and a 8oz bottel of the silver and that will probably last me for a life time. Toby uses the copper, because at the time that was all he could find. He bought a 8oz bottle of it and has been using it for the past 4+ years. He has not had a stuck vent liner yet, and he shoots approximately 6,000-7,000 rounds a year easy in his 10ML's and 10ML-II's.
Posted by: Doug/VA - 12/23/2001 (8:24 p.m.) - 216.98.84.130
How many of the threads do you fill? Do you fill just the front threads where it will distribute it when you screw it in, or do you fill all the threads?
What I've been doing is filling the first 2/3 of the threads and letting the stuff distribute back when you screw it in. I take my finger and fill it flush with the top of the threads. Am I using too much? What about the vent liner and how much do you put on it?
Posted by: 1SHOT-1KILL - 12/23/2001 (10:09 p.m.) - 63.15.175.254
I fill about 2/3 of the threads and then run it in and back out a couple times to make sure all the threads are filled in. I then take a Q-tip and remove all the lube that is on the face of the breech plug at the vent liner.
Posted by: rossman40 - 12/23/2001 (5:29 p.m.) - 209.51.222.99
I think Lubriplate came out with the orginal "neverseize". The copper colored stuff I have used and is copper based. The normal silver stuff I have used tons of and is good to 1600 degrees IIRC. Permatex also makes a nickel based anti-seize that was developed for use on nucler reactors and is more suited for higher pressures and temps but also is more suited for stainless steels. I'll see if I can dig up a part number.
Posted by: rossman40 - 12/23/2001 (5:41 p.m.) - 209.51.222.99
Didn't take long,,the nickel based Permatex antiseize has a PN of 77124 for the 8oz can. Any NAPA store should be able to get it since Permatex is one of their brands carried. I think the normal silver colored stuff is mixture of aluminum and copper were as the copper colored stuff should be mostly copper and should hold up better to high heat. The one brand I have seen that was copper colored was K&N or K&W products.
Posted by: Slufoot - 12/24/2001 (10:36 a.m.) - 216.98.94.82
Is your Savage the 10ML or the 10ML-II?
I've got the 10ML-II and I use the silver anti-sieze. I've noticed after about thirty shots the threads on the ventliner are becoming dry, therefore I always redope the threads after 20 - 30 shots.
Were you able to remove the stuck vent liner?
GOOD SHOOTING!
Slufoot
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anti-seize info
Posted by: Bruce Klieforth - 12/28/2001 (6:49 p.m.) - 208.166.196.147
I did some investigating on the anti seize issue with an engine rebuilder and stock car motor builder today. He is also a machineist. Regular permatex antiseize has aluminum in it and is good for 1600 degrees F. It doesn't say anything on the bottle about stainless steel either. The copper anti seize is better and is good for 1800 degrees F. This is the stuff he uses on the manifolds for the stock cars and snowmobile engines that he rebuilds. I bought a can from him (he has a NAPA store) and it was 4 oz for 4.79
The part number is 765-2569. I believe it is also the Permatex number.It lists stainless on the can. Then there is the sutff with the nickel in it. The only container I could find had 8 oz and sold for 24 bucks. It is however good for 2400 degrees F. What this leads me to believe is that the nickel stuff is probably the best but is a little expensive unless they make it in a smaller container. The info that this buddy gave me is that the copper stuff works very good for engines. I believe in a previous post that some of you were using the copper stuff already and wondering if you should switch to the silver. From whatI can tell, the copper is better. The nickel might not be so expensive if you have a stuck breech plug because of the other stuff. I guess time will tell. |
