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By 1SHOT-1KILL
This new system works very well and is very strong. demonstrated it strength at the range in front of several naysayer's who said I was going to blow my head off by shooting smokeless powder. They kept saying IF I overcharged by a grain or two, it wass going to blow up in my face. I goot tired of listening to them and asked if they were will to put their money were their mouth was. I told the one with the biggest mouth that id he was willing to put $100 on the bench I would over charge the 10ML-II I was shooting. He did and I got my LEE 3.4cc dipper and measured a scoop of Accurate Arms XMP-5744 (45 grains) and dumped it into the muzzle, I then got a second scope and started to trickle in a few grains, but decided what the hay, I dumped all of it into the muzzle, for a double charge (90 grains) of XMP-5744. I then stuffed a 250gr Hornady XTP on it, inserted a 209 primer, brought it my shoulder and fire it down range. They all looked at me like I was crazy or something. I then went on to tell that I had designed this system for Savage and I knew exactl what it would do and was capable of. I did not take the guys money though, my consience would not let me.
The current design, is the 10ML-II, that does not require the percussion module. The old design the 10ML, requires the percussion module. Each has it's advantages& disadvantages, like the 10ML with the percussion modules is a stronger design meaning during desrtuction test it easily withstood pressures in the 156,000 psi range without any damage, but Savage has had trouble with the tolerences on the percussion modules on some rifles. The current 10ML-II, is much easier shoot, in that you will not have to worry about the percussion modules being out of tolerence are wearing out of tolerence. The 10ML-II is not quiet as strong as the 10Ml, but has easily withstood pressures in the 120,000 psi range. Also the 10ML-II is avaliable in stainless, and in the near future both the blued and stainless with be avaliable with laminated stock and Realtree or Advantage camo stocks.
You can weigh every single powder charge, but I haven't weighed a charge (other than verifying the dipper weights for load data) in over 2.5 years. Instead I've been using the LEE Powder Dipper Set, mainly the 3.1cc, 3.4cc, and 3.7cc dippers exclusively for all loading, on the range and in the field. For example, the 3.4cc LEE Dipper will throw dip a charge of 44.9 grains of XMP-5744, if I weigh the charges I go to 45.0 grains even. I use the LEE Dippers on IMR-4227, H-4227, XMP-5744, VihtaVouri N110, and Lil' Gun. But until you get comfortable shooting smokeless powder in a muzzleloader, then by all means weigh them. Back in 1991, when I shot our prototype the first time with 2400 powder, I have to admit the pucker factor was high, to say the least.
There is a tendecy to try and equate this muzzleloader to centerfire rifle loads. Yes, a grain or 2 over charge in a 30/06 can result in a blown primer, ruptured case, ect. That is because, in a centerfire cartridge you have an enclosed combustion chamber where the pressure spikes very quickly and with an over charge sometimes dangerously. But with the 10ML-II , you have a pressure relief valve, the sabot. If the charge is too hot, say in an over charge or even a double charge, the sabot simply blows apart at the base, cause blow by at the sabot and the pressure never builds to a dangerous level. I've demonstrated double charges of XMP-5744 with a 250gr XTP, by firing them from the shoulder. But I don't make this a habit, just done it a couple times.
Note: We don't recommend doing this, but you can see what this gun will stand, and the safety margin it affords.
With the 10ML-II, the sabot is the key to getting great accuracy. The Key is to keep them cool. This means keeping the barrel cool. If the barrel heats up, then the sabots will heat up in the barrel. When the sabots, any sabots, get hot they become soft and pliable, and will not stand up to the high velocity and pressure. They will shred fingers off and burn thru at the base. Allow 5 minutes or so between shots for the barrel to return to a cool state, then load and shoot. This is the most common mistake that I've found new shooters of the 10ML-II making. They tend to loads and shoot as fast as they can, just like with other muzzleloader using BP, Pyrodex, etc.
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